linguine with spinach and peas

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Culinary secret: A great dish, even a great pasta, doesn’t have to involve a lot of actual cooking. In this one, the heat of the pasta does most of the work, wilting the spinach, melting the cheese, warming the peas, and bringing all the flavors together beautifully. It’s an easy weeknight supper that could also double as an elegant little dish to serve to friends. Use the baby spinach that comes prewashed in bags or boxes—no stemming necessary. Of all the get creative suggestions in the list that follows, I strongly recommend throwing on a few toasted pine nuts. (Put them in a dry skillet over low heat and shake them often until they are lightly browned, watching them like a hawk so they don’t burn.) Very worthwhile.

Salt for the pasta water

About ½ bag (about 5 ounces) fresh baby spinach leaves

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons minced garlic (2 good-sized cloves)

½ teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes (plus extra to pass at the table)

¾ pound linguine

2/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese (plus extra to pass at the table)

One 10-ounce package frozen peas, defrosted and at room temperature

1. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink.

2. While the water is coming to a boil, tear the spinach into large bite-sized pieces (this pretty much means just tearing the leaves in half, since they’re already small) and drop them into a large bowl. Pour the olive oil over the spinach, then sprinkle in the garlic, salt, and red pepper flakes. Use tongs or a long-handled fork to mix, and set aside.

3. When the water boils, add the linguine, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When the linguine is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging). Then transfer the pasta to the bowl containing the spinach mixture, mixing it in with the tongs or the fork until all the pasta is coated with olive oil. The spinach will wilt on contact with the hot pasta.

4. Immediately sprinkle in the Parmesan and toss well, so the cheese gets evenly distributed and melts nicely. Add the peas, mixing them in very gently so you don’t break them. (Just shake the bowl a few times, and they’ll mix themselves in.)

5. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, passing extra Parmesan and red pepper flakes for people to add at the table.

DEFROSTING PEAS

To defrost frozen peas, remove them from the box or bag, put them in a microwave-safe dish, and microwave them until they are thawed. You can also simply put them in a strainer and run cool water over them. Or even easier, just put the box or bag in a bowl and thaw in the refrigerator overnight.

GET CREATIVE

• Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
• Sprinkle the finished pasta with a few lightly toasted pine nuts.
• Increase the garlic to 1 tablespoon for more intense flavor.
• Add a few teaspoons of Roasted Garlic Paste (Chapter 1: Soups) along with the fresh garlic, mashing it into the olive oil.
• Use arugula in place of some or all of the spinach to add a more peppery flavor.
• Add ¼ cup crumbled feta or goat cheese when you add the peas.
• Stir a teaspoon or two of freshly grated lemon zest into the finished pasta.
• Make this vegan by using eggless pasta and omitting the cheese.