pasta shells with chickpeas and arugula

Makes 3 to 4 servings

There’s a luxury ingredient in this quick pasta, and it’s one that makes a major difference: fresh mozzarella—the soft white kind that comes in a tub of liquid, not the rubbery kind that’s sold shrink-wrapped. You can cut a few pieces into chunks or, even easier, use bocconcini, those bite-sized fresh mozzarella balls, whole or cut in halves or quarters if they’re on the large side. Don’t make the pieces too small, though, because it’s nice to bite into a serious chunk of fresh mozzarella in this texturally fun dish. Young, small (and thus not-so-bitter) arugula is best here. If you have older, larger arugula, remove and discard the stems. Not an arugula fan? Substitute baby spinach leaves, torn or cut into bite-sized pieces.

One 15-ounce can chickpeas (about 1½ cups cooked chickpeas)

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon minced garlic (about 1 good-sized clove)

¾ teaspoon salt (plus more for the pasta water)

½ teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ cup olive oil

½ pound fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into large dice

Freshly ground black pepper

½ pound small or medium-sized (up to 1-inch) pasta shells

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 cups (packed) coarsely chopped arugula

1. Set a colander in the sink and pour in the chickpeas; give them a quick rinse and allow them to drain.

2. In a large bowl, combine the vinegar, garlic, salt, thyme, oregano, and olive oil; whisk to blend. Stir in the chickpeas and mozzarella, and grind in a generous amount of black pepper. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, foil, or just a plate, and let it stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to an hour. (You can do this step up to 2 days ahead—in which case, refrigerate the mixture and bring it back to room temperature before proceeding.)

3. When you are ready to assemble the dish, put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the pasta, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the pasta toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the water-plus-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging), and then add the pasta to the chickpea mixture in the bowl.

4. Toss well from the bottom of the bowl, sprinkling in the Parmesan and arugula as you go. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature, as is or garnished with any of the extras listed at right.

GET CREATIVE

• Use a high-quality olive oil for more flavor.
• Garnish with a few sun-dried tomatoes—either dry or marinated in oil—cut into thin strips.
• Toss in a handful of chopped toasted walnuts along with the Parmesan and arugula.
• Add a few handfuls of halved tiny, sweet cherry tomatoes along with the Parmesan and arugula.
• Turning this dish into a pasta salad is as simple as combining all the ingredients as directed and then covering and chilling in the refrigerator. Toss to recombine just before serving, and if you like, throw in a few handfuls of halved cherry tomatoes.
• Use fresh thyme and oregano in place of dried; increase the amount to 1½ teaspoons of each, since fresh herbs have a more delicate flavor than dried.
• Make this vegan by using eggless pasta, omitting the Parmesan cheese, and replacing the mozzarella with tofu.