hot and sour soup with fresh shiitake mushrooms

You’ll be amazed at how doable this classic Chinese restaurant soup can be—in your own kitchen, and with no fancy technique or mysterious ingredients. Fresh shiitake mushrooms are easy to find these days, and very rewarding to cook with. You only need a few to get a major flavor and texture impact. Same with the toasted sesame oil: Here’s your front-row seat to witness how a mere teaspoon works exponential magic, infusing an entire batch of soup with its inimitable flavor.

Make this vegan by omitting the eggs.

2 eggs

10 medium-sized (about ½ pound) fresh shiitake mushrooms

2 tablespoons canola, soy, or peanut oil

1¼ teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

5¼ cups water

¼ cup cider vinegar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ pound firm tofu, cut into thin strips

1 to 2 tablespoons light brown sugar (optional)

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1½ tablespoons cornstarch

1 scallion, green part only, very thinly sliced on the diagonal

A handful of cilantro leaves, torn or coarsely chopped

1. Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl until you no longer see any bits of egg white. Leave the bowl on the counter or somewhere warm, so the eggs can come to room temperature while you make the soup.

2. Clean the mushroom caps by wiping them with a damp paper towel. Use a paring knife or scissors to cut off the stems. Discard the stems, and then thinly slice the caps and set them aside.

3. Place a soup pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat. After about a minute, add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the sliced mushrooms, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the red pepper flakes. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are golden brown.

4. Add the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt, 5 cups of the water, and the vinegar, soy sauce, tofu, and, if desired, a tablespoon of the brown sugar. (Then taste the soup, and if you think it needs more sweetness, add the second tablespoon of brown sugar.) Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.

5. Add the sesame oil and about 10 grinds of black pepper, and stir to combine.

6. Put the cornstarch in a small bowl with the remaining ¼ cup water, and mix until smooth. Stir the cornstarch mixture into the hot soup. Continue simmering for a minute or two, stirring once or twice. The soup will become glossy and will thicken slightly.

7. Slowly drizzle the beaten eggs into the simmering soup, stirring as you go. Cook for just 1 minute longer, until the eggs are set. Serve hot, topping each bowl with a scattering of scallion greens and cilantro leaves.

GET CREATIVE

• Pair this soup with Chinese Chicken Salad (Chapter 2: Salads) for a great little dinner.
• Use chicken or vegetable broth in place of some or all of the water for a richer-tasting soup. Taste before adding the salt in step 4; you may not need it all.
• Add ½ cup frozen peas, thawed under running water in a strainer, at the end of step 4.
• Add 8 uncooked peeled, deveined prawns in step 4. They will cook directly in the soup.
• Add 1 cup of cooked chicken, cut into strips, in step 4.
• Add an 8-ounce can of sliced water chestnuts, an 8-ounce can of sliced bamboo shoots, and/or a 15-ounce can of straw mushrooms at the end of step 4. (Drain and discard the liquid from any of these.)
• Garnish each serving with a few drops of additional toasted sesame oil.
• Pass some chile oil or additional red pepper flakes at the table.