corn chowder

Classic, comforting corn chowder is simple to make—especially if you use frozen corn kernels. Look for sweet corn or a blend of sweet and yellow. You can defrost it by putting it in a large strainer or colander and rinsing it under running water. And if fresh sweet corn is in season, by all means use it. Just peel off the husks and silks, stand an ear on a cutting board, and holding the ear firmly, use a paring knife to cut the kernels off. You’ll need 3 to 4 ears to make the 3 cups called for in this recipe. Use either milk or heavy cream for the final enrichment, but not half-and-half, which curdles when heated.

2 tablespoons butter

1 medium red or yellow onion, minced

1 stalk celery, minced

1 teaspoon minced garlic (about 1 good-sized clove)

1½ teaspoons salt

4 cups water

2 or 3 medium-small waxy potatoes (about ¾ pound), cut into ¾-inch dice

1 pound frozen corn kernels (about 3 cups), thawed

½ cup milk or heavy cream (or a combination)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a soup pot or a Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, garlic, and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the onion and celery begin to soften.

2. Add the water and the diced potatoes. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover and simmer gently for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes become completely soft. (It’s okay to err on the side of their becoming falling-apart tender.)

3. Add the corn and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the milk or cream and heat the soup very gently for a minute longer. Season to taste with pepper, ladle into bowls, and serve.

GET CREATIVE

• Pair Corn Chowder with a green salad featuring a very sweet red bell pepper and dressed with Raspberry-Shallot Dressing (Chapter 2: Salads).
• For a smokier flavor and a bit more substance, at the beginning of step 1 replace the butter with 2 slices of bacon, cut into thin strips. When the bacon is lightly browned, add the onion and proceed as directed.
• Stir a small handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley into the soup just before serving for a little extra color.
• Use scissors to snip some chives and/or cilantro over each serving, and/or garnish with a sprig of cilantro or flat-leaf parsley.
• Serve with crusty sourdough or any rustic-style bread.
• Turning this soup into Clam Chowder is easy. Just reduce the corn to ½ pound and add two small (6.5-ounce) cans chopped clams, with their juice, when you add the corn.

white cheddar mashed potato soup

If you’re fond of the flavor of rich, cheesy baked potatoes, this creamy soup will be right up your alley. For a soup made with this much potato, use russets rather than a waxy variety, which can turn gluey when puréed. A medium-sharp white Cheddar is the perfect complement to the potatoes, but you can use any kind of Cheddar or jack cheese.

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, chopped

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon minced garlic (about 3 good-sized cloves)

1½ teaspoons salt

3 cups water

4 medium-large russet potatoes (about 3 pounds), cut into small chunks

1½ cups milk

¾ cup (packed) grated white Cheddar cheese

Red pepper flakes

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Place a soup pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion and cumin, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the onion softens.

2. Stir in the garlic and the salt. Reduce the heat to medium-low, partially cover the pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 10 minutes.

3. Add the water and the potatoes. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Partially cover, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes become completely soft.

(It’s okay to err on the side of their becoming falling-apart tender.) Turn off the heat, stir in the milk, and let the soup sit, uncovered, to allow it to cool down a bit.

4. Use a blender or immersion blender (see Chapter 1: Soups) to purée the soup until it is smooth. (If it seems too thick, add a little extra water.)

5. Reheat the soup very slowly over medium-low heat, being careful not to let it boil. When it is hot, stir in the cheese and season to taste with red pepper flakes (a pinch or two) and black pepper (6 to 10 grinds). Serve hot, passing around the pepper mill and extra red pepper flakes.